Round, delicate and instantly recognisable, the macaron is today one of the emblems of French pâtisserie. Yet it was probably born in the Middle East and reached Europe via Italy, long before conquering Paris. Over the centuries it has evolved, giving rise to many regional specialities along the way.
From its ancient roots to Paris, by way of the French regions, here is the journey of a treat that has become a symbol of savoir-faire.
Key takeaways
- Probably born in the Middle East, the macaron has no single known inventor.
- Long before Paris, many towns created their own, from Nancy to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
- The filled, two-shell model took hold in Paris between the 19th and early 20th centuries, before becoming a symbol of refinement.
What are the true origins of the macaron?
Like many other almond-based treats, it probably has its roots in the Middle East. Pastry tradition generally places its appearance in Europe in the Middle Ages, notably in Italy.
If its journey is hard to trace with certainty, it is because at the time the word “macaron” also referred to a soup. Historical writings therefore leave some doubt as to whether they mention the cake or the soup.
What we do know is that it did not yet resemble the macaron we enjoy today. It was simply a small round shell, both crisp and melting.
Given its success, many places have claimed to have created it, without anyone being able to determine which of them is telling the truth.
Where does the word macaron come from?
The word is generally linked to old Italian terms such as maccherone or macarone. It is thought to have gradually evolved as it passed into other European languages.
This etymology recalls the historical links between the various almond preparations circulating on the continent at the time. On its own, however, it does not allow the place of invention to be determined with certainty.
The word gradually came to describe a small round cake made from almonds, sugar and egg white. Its definition has kept pace with the many changes in how it is made.
Originally, then, the term did not refer to the colourful, filled cake we know today. For several centuries, it described a much simpler treat.
How did the macaron arrive in France?
A particularly famous tradition credits Catherine de’ Medici with bringing the macaron to France. Born in Florence, she married Henri, the future King Henri II, in 1533. According to this widely repeated account, she brought cooks with her who introduced the treat at court.
Another story links it to the wedding of the Duke Anne de Joyeuse in 1581. Here again, it has largely been passed down through gastronomic tradition, without constituting definitive proof.
At the court of Versailles, it also became a much-appreciated delicacy, served by the king’s officers of the table from the 17th century onwards. This presence alongside the royal family helped establish its reputation.
A tour of France’s regional macarons
Many towns have developed their own version, each with its own texture and secrets.
The Nancy macaron
Its fame is associated with two nuns, Marie-Élisabeth Morlot and Marguerite Gaillot, who are said to have begun selling their macarons after leaving their convent during the French Revolution. In 1793, they reportedly helped popularise this recipe, which would become known as the “macaron des Sœurs” (Sisters’ macaron).
Unlike the Parisian version, it is enjoyed without filling, with a slightly cracked surface and a soft centre.
The Amiens macaron
The Amiens macaron also has a personality all its own. This speciality from Picardy is a small, soft almond-based round. Depending on the maker, the recipe may also include honey, apricot jam or bitter almond extract.
The Montmorillon macaron
In the Vienne department, Montmorillon has been renowned for its macarons since the early 19th century. Beneath a golden, crisp surface, they reveal a soft almond centre.
The Joyeuse macaron
In the Ardèche, the Joyeuse macaron is another long-standing interpretation of this treat. Made with almonds, sometimes enhanced with a hint of hazelnut, it stands out for its particularly crunchy texture.
The Saint-Émilion and Saint-Jean-de-Luz macarons
In Saint-Émilion, local tradition dates its production back to 1620, when it is said to have been made by Ursuline nuns.
In Saint-Jean-de-Luz, it is associated with a pastry chef named Adam. According to tradition, he offered his macarons to Louis XIV on the occasion of his marriage to the Infanta Maria Theresa of Spain in 1660. The savoir-faire was then passed down through the family and remains part of the Basque Country’s culinary heritage.
When was the Parisian macaron invented?
For the macaron as we know it today to appear, we have to wait until the 19th century, when Parisian artisans came up with the idea of joining two shells around a smooth, creamy centre.
This filling could be jam, buttercream or even compote, opening the door to entirely new creations.
And so the “Parisian macaron” was born, a symbol of elegance and a playground for modern cuisine.
Having become popular in the traditional flavours of chocolate, vanilla, coffee, pistachio, praline or lemon, it now indulges in all kinds of fantasies to the delight of gourmets: blackcurrant-violet, pistachio-raspberry, passion fruit, strawberry-yuzu, chestnut-blackberry…
What is a macaron made of?
Today, the macaron is made up of two main elements: the shells and the filling. The shells are traditionally made with:
- almond flour;
- icing sugar;
- sugar;
- egg whites.
Depending on the method used, the egg whites go into a French or Italian meringue. Italian meringue involves pouring hot syrup over whipped egg whites, while French meringue relies on whipping them directly with the sugar.
The mixing of the batter, known as macaronage, plays a decisive role in the final texture and appearance. After piping and baking, the shells should have a smooth surface, a slightly crisp texture and a soft centre.
The filling, for its part, allows the pâtissier to express all their creativity. It may be a ganache, buttercream, praline, caramel or crémeux.
How did the macaron become a symbol of French luxury?
The macaron did not become an icon thanks to its recipe alone. Its story is also that of a savoir-faire that gradually became associated with the great houses, tea rooms and the art of entertaining.
Its presence at the royal courts first gave it a prestigious dimension. Then artisans gradually perfected its making and multiplied its regional variations.
The Parisian model marked a new stage. Its perfectly regular shape, delicate colours, generous centre and the precision required to make it make it a creation particularly suited to the world of haute pâtisserie.
Its presentation also contributes to its success. Arranged in a box, offered in a palette of colours or as an assortment of flavours, it also becomes an object to give.
This combination of precision, creativity, aesthetics and the art of entertaining partly explains why it is now associated with French excellence around the world.
